I could spend a lot of money on a big compost tumbler and I’m sure I would love it. But there’s a cheaper way.
I now proudly present Compostings Cheap Aerobic Composter Method. (No patent pending. This method has been done by billions of people before me and you can find it all over the place.)
What you need:
- A cheap garbage can. Mine is plastic with wheels. The wheels come in very, very handy. Get that kind if you can.
- A drill. Or a nail and hammer. Or some kind of pokey thingy that can pokey through plastic (or aluminum if you go that route). You’ll note from the pictures that my drill is hand cranky which makes me cranky. Use a real drill and save yourself some labor. I just couldn’t find mine.
- Nitrogen contributors. Green stuff. Grass, veggie leftovers, etc.
- Carbon contributors. Brown stuff like cardboard. Newspaper strips (not brown, but you get the idea). I don’t like to use colored newspaper because I believe (with absolutely no science probably to back me up) that the colored ink is icky.
- Water. Life-giving water.
- About 30 minutes. (Took me about an hour because I kept searching in between hole pokes for a real drill.)
The Incredibly Uncomplicated Process
- Drill holes in the garbage can. We’re trying for aerobic composting and the little buggies that will do the work need air. Let it flow. Get holes on all sides and the top and bottom. The bottom holes will also allow extra water to drain.
- Begin adding your ingredients in layers. I started with strips of newspaper. Then I added some cardboard and some leaves. Then (and this ingredient is not necessary, but it’s like starter for bread dough) I added some fairly composted horse manure. You should add your green layers like vegetable matter, grass clippings etc. Since I used manure, I am going to let this compost for a long time. I won’t use it until next year to be sure every pathogen is dead.
- Build your layers like a club sandwich or a lasagna. Keep alternating. You want about equal parts of carbon and nitrogen contributors but don’t sweat it. Nature finds a way.
- You could fill it all the way up leaving 6 – 12 inches of space at the top at this point. For me, I’m going to use this as an active composter throughout the next couple of months and I’ll be adding our kitchen scraps.
- Either way, once you’ve got it filled to where you want it, add some water. Don’t be water stingy. Get it good and wet. It shouldn’t be swimming by the time you are done; it should be like a wet washcloth.
- Put the lid on and tip the can over. Roll that thing a few times to make sure the junk inside is getting to know one another.
- That’s it. Set it up someplace with some sun exposure but don’t sweat that too much either. It’s also good to raise it a bit to let the air flow through the bottom. Place it up on blocks.
- Once a week, roll it and add some water. The aerobic bacteria will consume the air, nitrogen and carbon and start to die off. As they do that, the thing heats up. You can check the temperature (160 f) and if it starts to drop, you know you are running out of your workers and the rolling will reintroduce air. The goal of the rolling is to kind of get the outside parts that are rich in oxygen into the center. Don’t sweat it. Just roll the thing. It will work. Over time, as the nitrogen and carbon are consumed, the heat won’t be so heaty. It’s all part of the composting thing. It just means that the next round of organisms are rolling in to do their part.
- In about 8 weeks you’ll have some nice compost. Once the temperature has cooled, it’s ready to use. It can be a good idea to actually let it stew longer now outside of the garbage can. Put it in a pile and wait for the worms to come in. They’re a good indicator of your compost. If they’re in it, it means it’s not heating up any longer and it’s good to go.
Addition: Anthony from thecompostbin has a nice suggestion in the comments. Drill the holes a bit bigger (3″) and cover them with a fiberglass screen to keep the pesties out. Larger holes would certainly allow more airflow.. that’s a good thing.
Nice work. I built a similar garbage can composter but drilled 3″ diameter holes and glued fiberglass screen over them. Extra air goes in but still keeps pests out. Great post, good luck with your new bin.
I like those additions.. I’m going to insert that into the post as an option. The wider holes would certainly help and at that size would probably require the screen. Thanks!
I actually have three of these garbage can composters and they work great.
Looks great! The cost of those commercial bins is outrageous!
Lisa – I’m with you. I’ll definitely need more of these. I think that as fast as I make them, I could fill them.
Ourfriendben – I can’t believe how much some of the composters cost. I’m sure they work great, but I spend too much on my garden as it is. I think I’m going to make another of these composters this weekend….
I did this too, but buried mine half way up…I have tons and tons of worms all through out. I can’t manage to tip and roll it, so we empty it into out wheelbarrow, mix, and return to the can. I love this how to!
I like the idea of burying it. How big are the holes in yours? The worms showing up is a great thing and must hasten the decomposition probably after the heat has done its job…
What a great how-to and such a good idea. Have you really had compost ready in eight weeks? That’s amazing!
8 weeks with a fully packed composter… I’m going to let mine go all summer as I’ll be adding to it and I used some manure that needs to burn up a bit.
What a timely post. I have an old plastic garbage can that I’ve been thinking about getting rid of, it has developed a few holes in it and the handle is breaking off, otherwise it is fairly sound still. What better use could I find for it? I’m thinking about trying a few different options to see what might work best for us.
Perfect! Go for it Cinj. You really can’t go wrong. Even if the composting doesn’t go aerobic, it will go anaerobic. It will be stinky and take longer, but it still works!
Certainly looks a lot cheaper than the rolling composters I have seen for sale. Some of them were dreadfully expensive. Good luck! I await your efforts
Great ideas, I have a few cans already punched full of black bear tooth holes.
Now see… that’s what I’m missing. Black bears of any kind. I would much rather that a bear does the hole work for me than using a stinking drill!
I am sooooo making one of these! Even better, we have a rolling trashcan that’d developed a few holes in the bottom. I think I’ll recycle it for this project and put something underneath it to catch the compost tea as it seeps out. Then it can be diluted and added to the garden! Thanks so much for the great tutorial!
Great idea on the compost tea catcher! Next one I make will have that addition.
As a printer I can tell you that colored ink is pretty much no more or less toxic than black ink. Black ink uses “carbon black” to create the black pigment. Other ingredients are oil (very often from soy at this point), miscellaneous ingredients for anti-misting and low-rub (so that the pressman are not inhaling the stuff as it prints), and paraffin distillates (to allow the ink to dry faster; ink dries through absorption and evaporation, the paraffin distillates allow for quicker evaporation). Colored inks contain the same basic ingredients as black ink except they use pigments instead of carbon black to achieve the desired color. I was always told by my ink supplier that I could eat the ink if I wanted so I am pretty sure that none of the pigments are toxic for us. All in all, I think you can set aside your fear of colored inks in the compost pile.
Thank you Robespierre! My favorite kind of information… helps dispel myths with truth.
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think I messed up, I buried my kitchen veg, fruit scraps in a foot or so of soil all over my garden last 2 mos, just covered it with a tarp to prevent weeds, I live in puyallup wa. I have great soil, should I till before planting next mo? any help? please help? will it be o.k to plant ? dont wanna burn up my plants, thank you for your help